All change..again!

We are not heading up the mountain today as planned. The weather has, again, played a significant part in our plans. We have had some snow for the last few days at all levels on the mountain and the cumulative effect of this may mean that the slopes high on the mountain are loaded. This could mean that they may avalanche if crossed.

Several teams have departed today in spite of the conditions, which don’t look too bad at Base Camp, for summit attempts on both the 2^nd and 3^rd October.

Our most recent weather forecast suggests that the 4^th October is a better day to summit and after lengthy discussions amongst ourselves and with our Sherpa colleagues we have decided to depart for Camp 1 tomorrow.

We will then stay at each camp in turn before reaching Camp 4 on Thursday from where we will mount our summit attempt on Friday.

Whilst the sitting around is normal for Himalayan mountaineering it is quite frustrating and I, for one, am looking forward to getting underway tomorrow.

The teams that have set off today will clear the path and also alert us to any problems on the mountain which is an advantage.

All white in Base Camp – 28 Sep 13

Discussions with the Sherpa Team

Purba making pork curry for supper which was very nice

Our friends from both HIMEX and Altitude Junkies have now departed and there camps are in the process of being stripped and portered down the hill to Samagoen.  ‘Bon Voyage everyone’.

Interestingly another team has arrived to take their place in base camp which suggests that this mountain is still open for business.

That’s it for the next few days. I look forward to sending an update upon our return from high on the mountain. ;-)

Ready to go - roll on Sunday

We have been in Base Camp for the last few days and our plan is to start out for the summit on Sunday 29^th Sep. All being well we will summit on Thursday 3^rd Oct.

Our friends from both Himex and Altitude Junkies were successful and are already packing up and heading back to Kathmandu. We enjoyed celebrating with them last night.

The weather forecasts have been inconsistent recently and this has proved to be quite frustrating, however, we are keen to get started on Sunday and have been repacking our equipment to make sure that we have everything we need.

We will be sharing the mountain with a Japanese team who are filming their journey for a children’s programme and a few other teams.

Mt Manaslu from Base Camp captured this evening

Mummy’s little soldier (he knows who he is) is in fine fettle as are the rest of us.  Have a great weekend everyone.

Team acclimatised following climb to Camp 3

We are now back in base camp having successfully completed our planned acclimatisation rotation. Everyone is well if a little tired.

Our two nights in camp 2 and walk to camp 3, to drop off high altitude clothing and equipment, will serve us well when the time comes for us to go for the summit. We will now rest in base camp for three or four days and watch the weather which is forecast to bring snow!

We're probably burning round 4000 Kcals per day on the mountain and temperatures (degrees celsius ) are approximately as follows, Camp 3: - 10, Camp 4: -13 and Summit: -21

If we get a lot of snow then we will need to assess the stability of the snow pack, as we go higher, regarding avalanches. If the snow pack is unstable it could be a long wait, however, we have time.

Our friends in the HIMEX and Altitude Junkies are summiting today and all is going well for them at the moment.



Some pictures from our latest trip.

Climbers on the route from Camp 2 to Camp 3. The summit looking ever closer.

Camp 3

Climbers on the route from Camp 3 to Camp 4

Jon, Brad and Chris on the way to Camp 2 (6700 metres)

All change - snowstorm, helicopter, Keith Lemon

Our arrival in Camp 1 was met with an overnight snow storm that saw us back down in base camp yesterday thwarting our planned acclimatisation rotation, sleeping at Camp 2 (6300m) for two nights and dropping some rations off at Camp 3 (6700m) before returning to Base Camp.

Descending back to Base Camp from Camp 1 in the snowstorm

That said the weather has changed today for the better and all the weather forecasts, from different team sources, are consistent in stating that we have five days of good weather. We are off again to try and get ourselves acclimatised by sleeping at Camp 2 and tagging Camp 3 ready for our summit push.

Our friends in the HIMEX and Altitude Junkies, teams may be going for their summit push in the next day or two and we wish them well.

On a lesser note our colleague Ben took ill on the way to Camp 1 two days ago and has gone back to Kathmandu for medical tests. He was in fine spirits upon his departure in the helicopter and we wish him well. No doubt he and Little Chris will be down town Thamel, Kathmandu before long. Have one for us lads!

Ben in fine spirits before his departure in the helicopter

On another note, while in Camp 1 yesterday morning we met up with Bradley (Keith Lemon) Beresford who is sporting his new look moustache. 

Keith Lemon (lookalike) visits Camp 1

That’s it for now. 

Hey ho away we go

Today we will head up to Camp 1 again for a sleep before heading through the icefall to Camp 2 for another two nights. On Saturday we will try and tag Camp 3 before returning to Base Camp on Sunday where we will consolidate, assess the weather and rest before heading out for our first crack at the summit which will take five days.

We have very closely followed the pattern that the more experienced commercial teams have adopted successfully over the last 6 years. It would be folly not to do this given the experience of both Russell Bryce from Himex and Phil Crampton (Dad was a Royal Engineer) from Altitude Junkies who have both been incredibly supportive of us all. Thank you both!

Whilst in Base Camp we have been looked after superbly by Purba and Nema who produced a delightful chicken curry last night and a steak meal two nights ago.

Brad, Jon and James tucking into the steak dinner with Nema looking on

The steak dinner produced on a camping stove (just needed some red wine)

Yesterday we sorted out food into 24 hours rations for both this next trip and for the first summit bid. Jon who has sourced and prepared the food for us talked us through the rations available which are fantastic. My rations are supplemented with Yorkshire tea bags and marmite. Thanks again Jon – Sterling effort!

Jon talking us through the rations prior to us preparing what we want to take up the hill individually. From the left Chris, James, Ben, Brad and Rob.

On other matters, Little Chris left us by Helicopter two days ago to undergo some medical tests in Kathmandu. He has been discharged from Hospital to await a flight home for further tests. His wit and banter have been missed and we wish him well. See the REMEC blog for a picture of him in the front seat of the helicopter.   http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/

Jim testing out his oxygen system

Mt Manaslu captured this morning

We are all on good form and looking forward to getting on the way again. The rest of the team have set off and I’ll be following them after posting this blog. Feel free to comment on the blog and ask any questions that you may have. I will do my best to answer them. Best wishes to all and see you soon. 

Base camp preparations

We have had a couple of days resting in Base Camp preparing oxygen masks and food for our next (and penultimate) journey high.

On Thursday we will head up to Camp 1 again for a sleep before heading through the icefall to Camp 2 for a sleep. On Saturday we will try and tag Camp 3 before retuning to Camp 2 again to sleep. On Sunday morning we will head down to Base Camp again to consolidate, assess the weather and rest before heading out for the summit which will take five days.

 

Mt Manaslu captured last night courtesy of Jon Evans

We are all good and looking forward to getting on the way again. The mountain is majestic and very appealing to us all in spite of the objective dangers that we must face in the steep ice fall between Camp 1 and Camp 2.

Our fellow climbers have returned from their last rotation before the summit today and they are all well if a little tired. It was good to listen to their stories. From my perspective it will be good to get high again and get the job done.

 
Find out more and read our team blog http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/ 

 

Back in base camp after reaching 6000m

We have just returned from Camp 1 after our journey high on the mountain to acclimatise. Prior to our departure we participated in the Pugja, a religious ceremony delivered by the local Lama to pay homage to the Buddist and mountain Gods. The Sherpa community will not start to climb seriously on the mountain without a Pugja which involves providing gifts (coke, sprite, beers, sweets and biscuits) and the Lama reading ancient scripts. It was a humbling experience.

We used our harnesses, crampons and ice axes for the first time in a long journey across the glacier up to Camp 1 which sits between 5300 and 5700 metres above sea level. It was an exhausting climb which took some 4 ½ hours and saw the majority of us beset with AMS. However, after an overnight rest the symptoms reduced significantly to allow some of us to ascend further.

Camp 1 looking up

The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6300 metres) takes approximately 4 hours and ascends a massive serac field using fixed ropes. It was great to be high on the mountain and to see the spectacular summit that is our quest, even closer. Upon arrival back at Camp 1 the much sought rest did not come and Brad and I woke exhausted having not slept well at all. Still it is good to be back in Base Camp.

Whilst at Camp 1 we met up with the teams that we have met previously on the trail and it was good to see them all again. They are on the second rotation on the mountain sleeping at Camp 1 and then sleeping in Camp 2 for two nights before descending to Base Camp again.

Since we have been away several more teams have arrived in base camp and the place is full and busy as a result.

The Serac field between Camp 1 and Camp 2 – An Adventure

Here’s my TFBSN back in base camp after our journey to Camp 1 for two nights with an acclimatisation climb through the ice fall towards Camp 2 - here and now.

I am thinking, that was tough and after my worst nights sleep (another indicator of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) it’s good to be back in base camp. We will all benefit form a few days rest before heading high again on our next rotation

I am feeling tired after pushing myself too much on the climb to Camp 2 yesterday.

My body state is showing signs of being run down.

My spirits are high.

My needs are to rest, eat well, sleep well and speak to my family. 

Happy Days.

Find out more from our team blog  http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/  a few more photos on there and it's updated by the team and myself on a daily basis.