Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Base camp preparations


We have had a couple of days resting in Base Camp preparing oxygen masks and food for our next (and penultimate) journey high.

On Thursday we will head up to Camp 1 again for a sleep before heading through the icefall to Camp 2 for a sleep. On Saturday we will try and tag Camp 3 before retuning to Camp 2 again to sleep. On Sunday morning we will head down to Base Camp again to consolidate, assess the weather and rest before heading out for the summit which will take five days.

 
Mt Manaslu captured last night courtesy of Jon Evans

We are all good and looking forward to getting on the way again. The mountain is majestic and very appealing to us all in spite of the objective dangers that we must face in the steep ice fall between Camp 1 and Camp 2.

Our fellow climbers have returned from their last rotation before the summit today and they are all well if a little tired. It was good to listen to their stories. From my perspective it will be good to get high again and get the job done.
 
Find out more and read our team blog http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/ 
 

Sunday, 15 September 2013

Back in base camp after reaching 6000m


We have just returned from Camp 1 after our journey high on the mountain to acclimatise. Prior to our departure we participated in the Pugja, a religious ceremony delivered by the local Lama to pay homage to the Buddist and mountain Gods. The Sherpa community will not start to climb seriously on the mountain without a Pugja which involves providing gifts (coke, sprite, beers, sweets and biscuits) and the Lama reading ancient scripts. It was a humbling experience.
We used our harnesses, crampons and ice axes for the first time in a long journey across the glacier up to Camp 1 which sits between 5300 and 5700 metres above sea level. It was an exhausting climb which took some 4 ½ hours and saw the majority of us beset with AMS. However, after an overnight rest the symptoms reduced significantly to allow some of us to ascend further.






Camp 1 looking up

The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6300 metres) takes approximately 4 hours and ascends a massive serac field using fixed ropes. It was great to be high on the mountain and to see the spectacular summit that is our quest, even closer. Upon arrival back at Camp 1 the much sought rest did not come and Brad and I woke exhausted having not slept well at all. Still it is good to be back in Base Camp.
Whilst at Camp 1 we met up with the teams that we have met previously on the trail and it was good to see them all again. They are on the second rotation on the mountain sleeping at Camp 1 and then sleeping in Camp 2 for two nights before descending to Base Camp again.

Since we have been away several more teams have arrived in base camp and the place is full and busy as a result.



The Serac field between Camp 1 and Camp 2 – An Adventure

Here’s my TFBSN back in base camp after our journey to Camp 1 for two nights with an acclimatisation climb through the ice fall towards Camp 2 - here and now.

I am thinking, that was tough and after my worst nights sleep (another indicator of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) it’s good to be back in base camp. We will all benefit form a few days rest before heading high again on our next rotation

I am feeling tired after pushing myself too much on the climb to Camp 2 yesterday.

My body state is showing signs of being run down.

My spirits are high.

My needs are to rest, eat well, sleep well and speak to my family. 

Happy Days.


Find out more from our team blog  http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/  a few more photos on there and it's updated by the team and myself on a daily basis.

Friday, 13 September 2013

Thinking, Feeling, Body State, Spirits and Needs (TFBSN)

A great and wise friend of mine, Barry Thorogood, introduced me to the concept of TFBSN as a way of checking in with ones self (it is just as effective when used by team) to be mindful, present and in the moment.

By asking ourselves the following questions, what am I Thinking? What am I Feeling? What is my Body State? How are my Spirits and what Needs do I have at this moment? We gain an awareness of the here and now which can be used to great effect personally and professionally. Give it a go.

The plan
So here we are ready to go high on the mountain that we set out to climb a few weeks ago. There can be no hiding from the fact that My Manaslu is a giant at 8156 meters high and therefore it is not without its objectives dangers. That said, we have mitigated against the ever present dangers by preparing our selves and our equipment fully. We are prepared and ready to go and start working at extreme high altitude.

Working high involves slowly moving higher and higher on the mountain over a number of days/weeks to the point where we have all of the food and equipment in the right place and we are acclimatised sufficiently for a summit attempt. At the moment we are planning a number of rotations that will see us set for a summit bid in the last week of September or first week of October.

Our first rotation will take us to Camp 1 (5700m) for an overnight stop. This is approximately 5 hours from base camp. After spending the night at Camp 1 we will move through the fixed ropes and ladders that have been set by our Sherpa teams towards Camp 2 (6300m). We will have short rest at Camp 2 before returning to Camp 1 for another overnight. The next morning we will head back down to base camp to rest for a couple of days.

The weather forecast is good, our equipment is checked, (re-checked) and ready.
Here’s my TFBSN sat in a tent 4850 metres above sea level - here and now. Mindful and in the moment.

I am thinking that we have done all that is required to start working high. I think that the team is ready and that we are well mixed with enough skills and experience to succeed. I am feeling strong and ready for the next part of our journey high on Mt Manaslu. My spirits are high.

My body state is getting stronger after a bad cold which exacerbated the normal symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), mainly a debilitating headache for me, which everyone is affected by.

My needs are to get higher on the mountain to acclimatise more, ready for our summit attempts in a few weeks time.

So, what are you Thinking? Feeling? What is your Body State? How are your Spirits and what Needs do you have at this moment? Give it a go. Gain an awareness of the here and now which and use that awareness to be your best. The best Mum, Dad, Teacher, Manager, Supervisor, Team Leader, Sports Person, Project manager, Police Officer, Soldier, Judge, Vicar, Salesman or Mechanic. You; here and now the best you can be.

Find out more from our team blog  http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/  a few more photos on there and it's updated by the team and myself on a daily basis.

Tuesday, 10 September 2013

Base camp (4800 metres above sea level)

We have arrived at base camp and started to sort out both our personal and team equipment ready for heading up high on the mountain. 

Dawn treated us to a stunning view of the mountain.


We are living about 80 metres lower than Mt Blanc! So most of us are huffing and puffing a bit due to the altitude, this should decrease over the next few days/weeks as our bodies adjust.

We have been busy sorting out the equipment ie communications, rations, cookers, gas, sleeping systems and putting every tent (23 of them!) up to make sure that it is serviceable.


We are planning a short walk up to the edge of the glacier tomorrow. This will aid our acclimatisation. We will also continue with the sorting of equipment and settling into our individual tents which will be home for the next month or so.  

Our pugja is booked for Thursday after which we will begin our climbing rotations on the mountain.

Find out more from our team blog  http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/  a few more photos on there and it's updated by the team and myself on a daily basis.



Sunday, 8 September 2013

Equipment leaves by Yak, pack horse and porter


The majority of our equipment left Samagoen this morning by Yak, pack horse and porter.


Cham (The Sirdar) sorting out our loads to go up to base camp

We have mostly stayed put in the Hotel (3rd world style) taking care of washing and sorting thorough our personal equipment in anticipation of being reunited with our mountaineering equipment at base camp.

We will head up to base camp tomorrow after breakfast and spend the next couple of days sorting equipment and settling into our home for the next month or so.  If the weather permits we will try and gain a little height on the mountain to further acclimatise. 

In out first couple of days at base camp the sherpas will arrange for a pugja. This is a religious ceremony steeped in Buddist traditions to show respect to the mountain and ask for permission to pass safely.
More about that later.

Find out more from our team blog  http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/  a few more photos on there and it's updated by the team and myself on a daily basis.

Till next time.

A message to a stranger - Louis Carstenz

Dear Louis

When I saw your mountain bag on the back of a pack horse my mind began to wonder.....

I know that you are from South Africa, Louis because I could see your address label as the horse went past. 

How old are you?

Is this your first attempt to climb one of the world’s 8000 metre peaks or are you a guide of some sort and therefore an old hand?

Are you married or single? Do you have children like me? What does you family in South Africa think about your desire to travel around the world to climb a mountain?

I wonder if we will meet high up on the giant that we are setting out to climb and communicate through snatched breaths or oxygen masks. I will be looking for you Louis.

Do you have anything else to do on your journey? Experience all that Kathmandu has to offer, meet the people of Nepal or live a simple life for a few weeks to declutter your mind and order your thoughts for the future?

Are you on the run from a busy career, taking a break or just up for a challenge? Climbing Manaslu is sure to be that!

Are you going to plan your life from now on in I wonder?

Whoever you are Louis, may you find what you seek, Sir.

Good luck on the ‘mountain of spirit’, Manaslu.

Yours sincerely,

Graeme

Saturday, 7 September 2013

Saying goodbye to our porters in Samagoen

The last 24 hours has been quite interesting. We arrived in Samagoen and said goodbye to our porter team that had been with us since Arughat. It hardly seems like eight days since we set out from Kathmandu.
Samagoen is a small place from which all expeditions to climb Mt Manaslu are mounted. It is from here that teams move up to the base camp from where the climbing starts and ends.


Saying goodbye to our porter team in Samagoen

As anticipated Cham (our Sirdar) set about getting our freight into the queue to go up the hill to base camp. 

We have met a Japanese team in front of us and the mixed team that we met earlier are already up in base camp. We can only use the resources from the village and these are limited and today our equipment has started to be transported up the hill by Yak, pack horse and porter.

Today we all had a walk out of Samagoen with a view, gaining a little height to aid our acclimatisation. Rob and I walked up to base camp, which is situated at approximately 4850 metres above sea level (about 38 metres below the summit of Mt Blanc) and back. It was quite tough as we’ve only been up to 3550 metres so far here in Samagoen.

The team remain in fine fettle and we are very much looking forward to heading up to base camp soon.


Views of the Manaslu massif from Samagoen. The summit is above the building that is under construction on the left of the photograph.

Please feel free to look at the team blog which has more photos and updates from the team and myself.  http://remec-manaslu13.blogspot.co.uk/